Marc Jacobs Fall 2012

Marc Jacobs closes out day five of New York Fashion Week with what is arguably the most highly anticipated show of the eight day parade of presentations. This season, with a set designed to mimic a decaying winter landscape, which was designed by sculptor Rachel Feinstein in a mere week and a half, Jacobs sent out models with some of the most stunning hats seen to date — albeit not ones of the most wearable nature.

Makeup was kept minimal with a focus on fresh, radiant skin, no blush, and a heavily lined lower eye given that the hats, by Steven Jones, were framing the face. Hats aside, the major take aways from the show were layering, heavy knits, rich fabrics, and styling not unlike the controlled chaos seen on the red carpet on the likes of Helena Bonham Carter with a slew of outfits that shouldn't work, but do.

Made for beautifully sculptural pieces and interesting shapes, the weighty luxe fabrics used this season, sometimes achieved via unexpected layering, as was the case when stoles were worn over coats. Among the standouts were black dresses with seams that made them appear as though they were covered in matte shattered glass, padded tweed cocktail dresses, and monochrome 3/4 length sleeve coats. As for accessories, there were some standout slouchy clutches, while shoes were buckled Pilgrim-style in a range of colors.

One of the designer's most intricately designed collections, it will be interesting to examine these pieces, full of bonded leather, embroidery, and wrought brocade, individually.

images: IMAXtree